Fashion Travel

The Graetzl of Vienna – Gumpendorferstrasse Neighbourhood

21. August 2017

In Vienna, we call the area around a certain location – our home, a sight, our office – a “Graetzl”. As an English speaker, you would say “great-cell” to pronounce it correctly. This term refers to the area in the immediate vicinity. As part of my insider’s guides to Vienna, I decided to introduce you to that concept. The first Graetzl I would like to introduce you is the area around Gumpendorfer Straße in the Mariahilf District (also called 6th District).

This area is located between the shopping street Mariahilfer Straße and Linke Wienzeile (next to Naschmarkt). It is also very near to the Secession, the famous building with its ball of golden leaves on top where artists around Gustav Klimt started their movement more than 100 years ago.

I really like the Gumpendorfer Straße Graetzel, because of its unique vibe – it is a mix of heritage and modern design. With a lot of really cool boutiques, cafés and restaurants. I have picked my favourite places for you and have marked them in the map above.

1 TOP kino bar

Even though this bar of the cinema is not one of the most glamorous places in town, I love to sit outside on the square at Rahlgasse. It is a great place for people watching 🙂 (Rahlgasse 1)

2 Ramien

Even before my very first time in Asia, Ramien was one of my favourite places for Asian food. This was more than ten years ago, when international cuisine in Vienna was not as diverse as it is now. Ramien is still one of my favourite places for Asian food. (Gumpendorfer Straße 9)

3 Shanghai Tan

Apart from the really cool interior deco, the food at Shanghai Tan is delicious. It reminded me of all the cool restaurants in Beijing during my exchange semester. Back in Vienna, whenever I craved some dumplings, I dragged my friends to this cool place right next to Ramien. It is a perfect place for dates too. (Gumpendorfer Straße 9)

4 Phil

Phil is a chilled out café with a nice breakfast selection. Most of the books, DVDs and furniture in the café can be purchased. (Gumpendorfer Straße 10)

5 Sperl

If you are a fan of the traditional Viennese coffee houses, Sperl is the place to go to in Gumpendorfer Straße. (Gumpendorfer Straße 11)

Fillgraderstiege connecting Theobaldgasse and Fillgradergasse was built between 1905 and 1907. The intricate details are typical of the style of the Vienna Secession.

6 das moebel

The concept of das moebel is similar to Phil – in their café in Burggasse, you can purchase the furniture used in the café. The store in Gumpendorfer Straße offers even more products. (Gumpendorferstraße 11)

7 Anzueglich

The Austrian label focuses on organic and fair fashion at reasonable prices. Their pieces can be used for formal as well as casual occasions. I really love their beautiful summer dresses. Definitely a label to watch! (Theobaldgasse 9)

8 Akrap

If you need a caffeine bosst, Akrap is the best address for a quick espresso at the bar or a coffee to go. I think it serves one of the best coffees in town. (Koenigsklostergasse 7)

9 Lichterloh

Every time I pass by this antique store, my heart skips a beat. I am still dreaming of the pieces from the 1950s and hope that I will own one of the beautiful chairs or lamps one day!  (Gumpendorfer Straße 17)

The Graetzel around Gumpendorfer Straße is home to Gruenderzeit houses which were built in the second half of the 19th century.

10 Nachbarin

The same building as Lichterloh also hosts Nachbarin. A concept like this store had been missing in Vienna. I remember when I was a child, Vienna was full of cute little boutiques with unique pieces. Unfortunately, they had to give way to big international chains which has made shopping in Vienna a bit dull. Nachbarin with international brands – some known, some not so much, brings back this boutique-concept to Vienna. I also spotted Elena Ghisellini bags (I first discovered them in Vancouver and I have been a fan of the colourful bags since then). (Gumpendorfer Straße 17)

11 Luv the Shop

This store reminds me of all the shops in Berlin Mitte. Luv has a lot of brands with a nordic/Berlin touch. (Gumpendorfer Straße 24)

12 Mama Liu & Sons

Dumplings and Gin! Mama Liu & Sons got me with this combo, two of my favourite things in one place. Apart from the dumplings, the whole dim sum menu is delicious and the bar has a wide range of gin (and other cocktails 🙂 ). (Gumpendorfer Straße 29)

Dumplings, dumplings AAAAND gin! Mama Liu & Sons knows how to make me happy!

13 … blumengestalten

Really cute flower store. Their small pot plants are covered in pastel coloured fabrics. (Koestlergasse 11)

14 St. Charles Cosmothecary

This place has become one of my go-to stores for natural cosmetics in Vienna. They also sell RMS cosmetics. (Gumpendorfer Straße 33)

I am in love with the beautiful doors in Vienna. Maybe I should start a photo series “The Doors of Vienna”. What do you think?

Have you been to the Gumpendorfer Straße Graetzel?

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  • Reply Maxine Hamilton 31. August 2017 at 8:22

    What a great list! Thank you for putting this together 🙂
    I have never been to Gumpendorfer Straße Graetzel but now I want to, especially Mama Liu and Sons for a cocktail and dumplings! Yummmmmmmy!

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 9:51

      Thanks so much for your feedback. Among visitors, Gumpendorfer Straße is not very known but it is a really cute area. I hope you can check it out next time you are in Vienna!

  • Reply Anya 31. August 2017 at 9:29

    Mama Liu and Sons sounds like my absolute dream! Gin is my favourite drink, and I was just studying in China… I miss the dumplings! This area sounds like such a fun place- I definitely have to check it out!

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 9:55

      Oh, that is so funny – so many similarities – gin is my favourite too and I also studied in China, haha!

  • Reply fay 31. August 2017 at 10:28

    What a great review of Vienna’s immediate neighbourhood. The Shanghai Tan sounds like my kind of place, I mean dumplings yes please!

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 18:07

      Haha, another dumpling lover!!! Could eat them every day!

  • Reply Flo 31. August 2017 at 11:04

    What a cute neighbourhood! I’m a coffee fiend and would love to check out Akrap and Phil. Did you draw the illustration/map at the top by the way? It’s so cute!

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 18:06

      Thanks so much, Flo! Yes, I did it myself 🙂

  • Reply Catherine - Red Door Ponderings 31. August 2017 at 12:00

    Thanks for introducing us to the concept of Graetzel – love it. Looks like some great places to check out!

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 18:07

      You’re welcome. I figured that a lot of my international friends had no idea about it, so I thought it’s worth sharing!

  • Reply Anna 31. August 2017 at 13:19

    What a lovely little cute map you have :-). Vienna is still on my list. Surely a beautiful place.

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 18:08

      Thanks, Anna! You should visit, I’m sure you will have a great time!

  • Reply Vicki 31. August 2017 at 13:38

    Dumplings and Gin? Sounds like an amazing combination haha. Too bad I missed that.I have been there but it’s the first time I hear the word Graetzel. And now that I see what exactly you can find there in detail it seemed like I missed a lot last time. Seems like I need to return. Also I’d love to have some more Wiener Schnitzel. <3 thank you for sharing this guide.

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 18:10

      Yeah, I found about the dumplings and gin combo and decided that’s my place 😀 The funny thing about Vienna is that a lot of visitors know the imperial side bought not the hip and international one. Therefore, I decided to show different perspectives of the city. And Schnitzel is always a good idea 😀

  • Reply Raksha 31. August 2017 at 19:02

    I find Vienna very interesting. Love to visit it during Christmas. Thanks for putting together this list. Going to bookmark it now. Maybe I’ll also take up doors in Vienna series. Sounds fun 🙂

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 20:11

      Yes, let me know if you start a door series 😀 Christmas in Vienna is lovely but spring and autumn are nice as well.

  • Reply yasmin 31. August 2017 at 19:26

    So nice to hear about these spots in Vienna. I’ve been there once 7 years ago but would really like to go back and explore more! I also lived in China for a while so the Shanghai Tan sounds great! I’m a sucker for vintage treasures so I have to go to Lichterloh! Thanks for all the lovely tips!

    • Reply Liz 31. August 2017 at 20:12

      So cool, where have you lived in China? Sounds like the area is perfect for you 🙂

  • Reply Eve Kay 1. September 2017 at 9:57

    Great list of shops! Too bad I didn’t have time for this place on my last visit. Would love to visit St. Charles Apothecary and the antique store next time!

    • Reply Liz 1. September 2017 at 22:28

      Thank you! Sounds like you have a good excuse to come back 🙂

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